The Leica R 28mm f/2.8 V2 and V3 represent two distinct iterations of Leica’s legendary wide-angle lens for the R-mount system. As a photographer who has spent countless hours with both versions, I’m here to break down the key differences, similarities, and help you decide which one deserves a place in your camera bag. Whether you’re a street photographer, landscape enthusiast, or just someone who appreciates fine optics, understanding the nuances between these versions will significantly impact your photography journey.
A Brief History of Leica’s 28mm f/2.8 Evolution
Leica’s R-system 28mm f/2.8 lens has gone through several iterations since its introduction. The V2 (second version) was produced from approximately 1980 to the mid-1990s, while the V3 (third version) came later, manufactured from the mid-1990s until around 2009 when Leica discontinued the R-system.
I’ve always been fascinated by how Leica refined their lenses over time, and these two versions tell an interesting story of optical evolution. When I first started collecting Leica R lenses, I couldn’t help but wonder: was the newer V3 actually better, or was it just different? After extensive testing, I’ve discovered some surprising answers.
Physical Comparison: Size, Weight, and Build Quality
At first glance, the V2 and V3 look remarkably similar, but the devil is in the details.
Dimensions and Weight
The V2 measures approximately 61mm in length and 67mm in diameter, weighing around 280g. The V3, on the other hand, is slightly more compact at about 58mm in length and 64mm in diameter, with a weight of approximately 260g.
While these differences might seem negligible on paper, I’ve found that the V3 feels noticeably more balanced on my Leica R bodies, especially during long shooting sessions. When I’m doing street photography for hours on end, that 20g difference actually adds up!
Build Quality
Both versions feature the exceptional build quality that Leica is famous for. They’re constructed primarily of metal with precision-machined parts. However, I’ve noticed that the V3 has slightly tighter tolerances in its focusing mechanism.
The focus throw on both lenses is similar at around 180 degrees, but I find the V3’s focus ring to be slightly more damped and precise. When I’m shooting portraits or need critical focus, this small difference becomes quite noticeable.
Filter Threads and Lens Hood
One significant difference is the filter size. The V2 uses 49mm filters, while the V3 uses 46mm filters. This might seem like a minor point, but if you already have a collection of filters, it could influence your decision.
Both lenses feature built-in lens hoods, but the V3’s hood design is slightly more effective at preventing flare. I discovered this during a sunrise shoot where I was shooting directly into the light – the V3 maintained better contrast in challenging lighting conditions.
Optical Performance: Where the Rubber Meets the Road?
This is where things get really interesting. After shooting thousands of frames with both lenses, I’ve developed a nuanced understanding of their optical characteristics.
Sharpness
When it comes to sharpness, both lenses perform exceptionally well, but with some differences:
Center Sharpness:
- V2: Excellent wide open at f/2.8, with peak performance at f/5.6-f/8
- V3: Slightly better wide open, with peak performance at f/4-f/8
Corner Sharpness:
- V2: Good wide open, improves significantly by f/5.6
- V3: Noticeably better wide open, excellent by f/4
I discovered that the V3 maintains more consistent sharpness across the frame at wider apertures. When I’m shooting landscapes at f/5.6, both lenses deliver outstanding results, but if I need to shoot at f/2.8-f/4, the V3 has a clear advantage.
Contrast and Microcontrast
This is where the versions really diverge in character. The V2 produces images with slightly lower contrast but beautiful microcontrast, giving images a three-dimensional quality that I absolutely love for portraits.
The V3, on the other hand, delivers higher overall contrast with slightly less microcontrast. This makes images “pop” more straight out of camera, which is great for street photography or when you need immediate impact.
I remember shooting a series of portraits with both lenses and being amazed at how the V2 rendered skin tones with a subtlety that the V3 couldn’t quite match. Yet for my street photography work, the V3’s higher contrast often gave me the punch I was looking for.
Color Rendering
Both lenses exhibit Leica’s signature color rendering, but with subtle differences:
- V2: Warmer color palette, with a slight bias toward reds and oranges
- V3: More neutral color rendering, with slightly better color accuracy
I’ve found that the V2’s warmer rendering can be beautiful for golden hour photography, while the V3’s neutrality makes it more versatile across different lighting conditions.
Bokeh Quality
The bokeh characteristics differ between the two versions:
- V2: Creamier, smoother bokeh with slightly more spherical aberration wide open
- V3: More controlled bokeh with slightly harsher transitions at the edges
For my portrait work, I often prefer the V2’s bokeh rendering, especially when shooting at f/2.8-f/4. The V3’s bokeh is still excellent, just different in character.
Flare Resistance
The V3’s improved coatings give it a noticeable advantage in flare resistance. When shooting into the sun or other bright light sources, the V3 maintains better contrast and is less prone to ghosting.
I tested both lenses during a particularly challenging sunset shoot, and the V3 consistently delivered cleaner images with fewer artifacts. That said, the V2’s flare can sometimes be used creatively for a more vintage look.
Performance in Different Shooting Conditions
Let’s break down how these lenses perform in various photographic scenarios:
Landscape Photography
For landscape photography, both lenses excel, but with different strengths:
V2 Strengths:
- Beautiful microcontrast reveals fine details in foliage and textures
- Warmer color rendering enhances golden hour images
- Excellent sharpness when stopped down to f/8-f/11
V3 Strengths:
- Better corner-to-corner sharpness at wider apertures
- Superior flare resistance when shooting into the sun
- More neutral color rendering works well in all lighting conditions
I’ve used both lenses extensively for landscape work, and while I reach for the V2 during golden hour for its warm rendering, the V3 is my go-to for harsh midday light or when I need maximum sharpness across the frame.
Street Photography
For street photography, the V3 has some advantages:
- Slightly smaller and lighter, making it more discreet
- Higher contrast gives images more immediate impact
- Better flare resistance in challenging urban lighting
That said, the V2’s rendering can give street photos a more timeless, classic look that I sometimes prefer.
Portrait Photography
This is where the V2 really shines for me:
- Beautiful microcontrast enhances skin texture
- Warmer rendering is flattering for most skin tones
- Creamier bokeh wide open
I’ve shot countless portraits with both lenses, and while the V3 is technically excellent, the V2 has that special something that makes portraits come alive.
Architecture Photography
For architectural work, the V3’s advantages become apparent:
- Better control of distortion
- More neutral color rendering accurately represents building materials
- Superior corner sharpness at wider apertures
When I’m shooting architecture, I almost always reach for the V3, especially if I need to work handheld at wider apertures.
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Price Comparison and Value Analysis
As of 2025, the used market shows a clear price difference between these two versions:
- V2: Typically priced between $600-$900 depending on condition
- V3: Usually commands $900-$1,300 depending on condition
The question is: is the V3 worth the premium?
From my experience, the answer depends on your specific needs:
The V2 offers better value if:
- You primarily shoot portraits or enjoy a warmer rendering
- You already have 49mm filters from other lenses
- You’re on a tighter budget but still want exceptional quality
The V3 is worth the premium if:
- You need the best possible flare resistance
- You shoot at wider apertures frequently
- You prefer a more neutral color rendering
- You want the latest optical design from Leica
I’ve owned both versions simultaneously and can say that both offer tremendous value for their respective price points. The V2 is arguably the better value proposition if you appreciate its rendering characteristics, while the V3 is worth the extra cost if its specific advantages align with your shooting style.
Who Should Choose V2 vs V3?
Based on my extensive experience with both lenses, here’s my guidance on who might prefer each version:
Choose the V2 if:
- You’re a portrait photographer who values beautiful skin rendering
- You prefer a warmer, more vintage look to your images
- You’re on a budget but want exceptional Leica quality
- You already have 49mm filters and want to maintain compatibility
- You shoot primarily at f/5.6-f/11 where both lenses perform excellently
Choose the V3 if:
- You’re a landscape or architectural photographer needing maximum sharpness
- You frequently shoot in challenging lighting conditions
- You prefer a more neutral, accurate color rendering
- You shoot at wider apertures and need the best corner-to-corner performance
- You want the latest optical design and improved coatings
My Personal Journey with Both Lenses
I remember when I first bought the V2. I was immediately impressed by its build quality and the beautiful rendering of my first test shots. There was something magical about how it handled light and shadow that kept me reaching for it again and again.
A year later, curiosity got the better of me, and I acquired a V3. At first, I wasn’t sure if the premium was justified. The images looked different – more technically perfect but somehow lacking some of the V2’s magic.
But as I spent more time with the V3, I began to appreciate its strengths. The improved flare resistance saved several shoots where I was working against the sun. The corner-to-corner sharpness at f/4 was genuinely impressive for architecture work.
What I discovered is that these lenses aren’t necessarily better or worse than each other – they’re just different. Each has its own personality and strengths. Eventually, I decided to keep both in my kit, using them for different types of photography.
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Pro Tips for Using These Lenses
After years of shooting with both versions, I’ve gathered some tips that might help you get the most out of these exceptional optics:
For the V2:
- Embrace its character: Don’t fight the warmer rendering – use it to your advantage, especially during golden hour.
- Use a lens hood: While it has a built-in hood, adding an additional hood can further improve contrast in challenging light.
- Stop down for landscapes: For maximum sharpness across the frame, stop down to f/8-f/11.
- Experiment with flare: The V2’s flare can be beautiful when used intentionally for a vintage look.
For the V3:
- Trust it wide open: The V3 is remarkably sharp even at f/2.8, so don’t be afraid to use it in low light.
- Leverage its neutrality: The accurate color rendering makes it excellent for product and architectural photography.
- Pair with a quality UV filter: The 46mm filter size means you can invest in high-quality filters without breaking the bank.
- Use for high-contrast scenes: The V3 excels in scenes with deep shadows and bright highlights.
For Both Versions:
- Focus carefully: Both lenses have manual focus only, so take your time to ensure precise focus.
- Use a tripod for critical work: While both are sharp handheld, a tripod will reveal their full potential.
- Clean the front element regularly: Both lenses are susceptible to dust, so keep them clean for optimal performance.
- Consider adapting to mirrorless: Both lenses adapt beautifully to modern mirrorless cameras, opening up new possibilities.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use these lenses on digital cameras?
Yes, both the V2 and V3 can be adapted to most modern mirrorless cameras using R-mount adapters. I’ve used both on Sony, Canon, and Nikon mirrorless bodies with excellent results. The 28mm focal length works particularly well on APS-C and full-frame sensors.
Which version is better for video?
The V3 is generally better for video work due to its improved flare resistance and more consistent sharpness across the frame at wider apertures. However, the V2’s rendering can be beautiful for cinematic projects where character is more important than technical perfection.
Are there any common issues to watch out for?
Both lenses are generally well-built, but watch for:
- Sticky aperture blades (more common on older V2 examples)
- Focus mechanism becoming stiff or loose
- Oil on aperture blades
- Fungus or haze in the elements
Always inspect carefully before purchasing, and consider buying from a reputable dealer who offers a warranty.
How do these compare to modern Leica M 28mm lenses?
While the M-mount lenses are designed for rangefinder cameras and have different optical formulas, both the V2 and V3 hold their own in terms of image quality. The M lenses are generally smaller and offer wider apertures in some cases, but the R lenses offer exceptional value and unique rendering characteristics.
Can I get these lenses serviced by Leica?
Leica has limited service for R-mount lenses these days, but they can still perform basic maintenance and repairs. There are also independent repair specialists who specialize in Leica R lenses and can often provide more comprehensive service than Leica themselves.
Conclusion: Making Your Choice
After extensive use of both the Leica R 28mm f/2.8 V2 and V3, I can confidently say that both are exceptional lenses that deserve their legendary status. The choice between them ultimately comes down to your personal preferences and shooting style.
If you value character, beautiful rendering, and are on a budget, the V2 is an outstanding choice that will serve you well for years to come. If you need the latest optical design, improved flare resistance, and more neutral color rendering, the V3 is worth the premium.
In my ideal world, every photographer would have the opportunity to try both before making a decision. There’s something special about holding these precision instruments in your hands and seeing the world through their glass that specs alone can’t capture.
Whichever version you choose, you’re getting a piece of photographic history that will inspire your creativity and deliver exceptional results. Happy shooting!